A direct bolt-on upgrade from Borg Warner, the Borg Warner Airwerks Turbocharger SX K03 MINI Cooper S EP6 HP Upgrade K03 2074 with a 41mm compressor wheel. This turbo offers performance upgrade for both Cooper S and JCW models.
Image shown is an approximation.
Fits the following Cooper S and JCW Turbocharged models:
2007-2013 R56 MINI Cooper S Hardtop including JCW models
2008-2014 R55 MINI Cooper S Clubman including JCW models
2009-2015 R57 MINI Cooper S Convertible including JCW models
2012-2015 R58 MINI Cooper S Coupe including JCW models
2012-2015 R59 MINI Cooper S Roadster including JCW models
2011-2016 R60 MINI Cooper S Countryman including JCW models
2013-2016 R61 MINI Cooper S Paceman including JCW models
Performance:
- Upgrade Turbo Limit: 245 hp
- Max T3 Continuously: 950°C
- Max T3 Temporarily: 980°C
Features:
- High temperature alloy turbine housing
- Extended tip compressor wheel
- Twin scroll turbine housing
- Water cooled bearing housing
Specifications:
- Comp. Wheel O.D. (mm): 51.00
- Comp. Wheel Inducer Dia. (in.): 1.61
- Comp. Wheel Inducer Dia. (mm): 41
- Turbine Wheel O.D. (in): 1.77
- Turbine Wheel O.D. (mm): 45
- Turbine Wheel Exducer (in): 1.58
- Turbine Wheel Exducer (mm): 40.3
- Turbo Area: 4 cm2
Larger inlet which will require an aftermarket intake system that contains a silicone hose or an aftermarket silicone intake hose that can adapt to the larger inlet. Factory inlet boots may need the inner sleeve removed to fit.
Some States (like California) have ever tightening requirements for emissions testing and inspections. Always check your local regulations on compliance for street use.
OTHER PARTS TO CONSIDER
Gaskets, seals, studs, and other hardware are NOT included. If you need to replace these items, order separately.
See our Turbo Install Kit. This kit includes all the most commonly replaced gaskets and seals, plus a new oil supply line. Additional gaskets, seals and other hardware may be required depending on the installation.
When servicing the Turbo on the MINI, it is very important (maybe even critical) that you replace the Turbo Oil Supply line to avoid potential future turbo issues. (Included in the Turbo Install Kit).
Over time, the turbo and turbo supply line builds a fine layer of 'coked' or cooked oil on the internal surfaces. When you remove the supply line from the turbo, this disrupts the continuity of the coked layer with great potential of some of the coking to flake free. These coked oil particles can easily clog the fine journals that feed oil to the turbo bearings. Once the the oil flow is compromised, it is only a matter of time for cascading failures that can damage the turbo and catalytic converter! Don't take a chance - REPLACE the Oil Supply Line ! ! !
For additional protection, take a look at the Turbo Oil Supply Line Thermal Wrap.
For other TURBOCHARGER related products, see our TURBOCHARGER products page.
OUR ADVICE ON DRIVING A TURBOCHARGED MINI
We STRONGLY recommend you change the motor oil more frequently than the factory recommendation. Anecdotal evidence suggests Turbo's with more frequent oil changes have fewer issues. We suggest 5000 mile oil change interval or less. Make sure you use FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil with the ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles) A3/B3 specification.
After a long or hard drive, drive 'easy' for a while just before your destination. This will reduce the engine and oil temperatures to lower operating levels. Also make a habit to let the engine idle for a couple minutes before shutting off. This will help cool the turbo preventing oil coking in the journals and bearings. Yes, the MINI has an auxiliary water pump that runs after shutdown to help cool the turbo, BUT - the oil isn't cirulating - it just sits there waiting for the turbo to cool. This is why we recommend you idle before shutdown - let the oil circulate while the temperature comes down.
We recommend the following:
[ ] Replace the turbo oil supply line with the turbo.
- - - Due to excess heat round the turbocharger and particulates suspended in the turbo supply oil the oil will harden or "coke~ in the turbo and oil supply lines. If the oil supplyline is not replaced with the turbocharger the coked oil will break free from the side walls of the oil supply line and damage the turbocharger bearings. Cleaning the oil line will not help and only aggravate and increase the likelihood of the turbo failure due to coked oil breaking free form the sidewall.
[ ] Replace the catalytic converter on mini coopers before installing a new turbo.
- - - The Catalytic converters in the downpipe and B pipe may look clear but if any oil leaked into it some of the holes might be blocked and will cause back pressure. This starts to happen on Mini Coopers at 15k miles! Exhaust back pressure causes premature failure of the turbocharger. Turbochargers are not designed to have pressure on the exhaust side. As an alternative, have your catalytic converter refurbished to restore original flow.
[ ] Prime the turbocharger.
- - - No oil on the turbocharger bearings will cause failure of the bearings if they are dry even for a short period of time. Prime the new turbo with oil before you connect the oil lines. For maximum protection, see Turbo Additive for Priming New Turbo's
[ ] Fresh engine oil with a turbocharger change
- - - Perform an oil change with full synthetic motor oil at the factory recommended viscosity when you install a new turbo. Change the oil again after one heat cycle if: the engine is brand new, newly rebuilt, or if your MINI had a catastrophic turbo failure.
Before installing any of our products it is the responsibility of the installer/owner to fix or resolve any and all problems that cause the original part/item to fail and can cause the new part/item to fail. Since we do not troubleshoot, we take no responsibility for incorrectly diagnosing the issue that caused the initial part/item to fail.
LEARN MORE ABOUT TURBOCHARGERS
Take a look at these informative videos that will help you avoid potential pitfalls with the Turbo:
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 1 - Oil Line
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 2 - Catalytic Converter
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 3 - No or Low Oil
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 4 - Using the Correct Oil
NOTE: Some states (like California) have ever tightening requirements for emissions testing and inspections. Always check your local regulations on compliance for street use.
A direct bolt-on upgrade from Borg Warner, the Borg Warner Airwerks Turbocharger SX K03 MINI Cooper S EP6 HP Upgrade K03 2074 with a 41mm compressor wheel. This turbo offers performance upgrade for both Cooper S and JCW models.
Image shown is an approximation.
Fits the following Cooper S and JCW Turbocharged models:
2007-2013 R56 MINI Cooper S Hardtop including JCW models
2008-2014 R55 MINI Cooper S Clubman including JCW models
2009-2015 R57 MINI Cooper S Convertible including JCW models
2012-2015 R58 MINI Cooper S Coupe including JCW models
2012-2015 R59 MINI Cooper S Roadster including JCW models
2011-2016 R60 MINI Cooper S Countryman including JCW models
2013-2016 R61 MINI Cooper S Paceman including JCW models
Performance:
- Upgrade Turbo Limit: 245 hp
- Max T3 Continuously: 950°C
- Max T3 Temporarily: 980°C
Features:
- High temperature alloy turbine housing
- Extended tip compressor wheel
- Twin scroll turbine housing
- Water cooled bearing housing
Specifications:
- Comp. Wheel O.D. (mm): 51.00
- Comp. Wheel Inducer Dia. (in.): 1.61
- Comp. Wheel Inducer Dia. (mm): 41
- Turbine Wheel O.D. (in): 1.77
- Turbine Wheel O.D. (mm): 45
- Turbine Wheel Exducer (in): 1.58
- Turbine Wheel Exducer (mm): 40.3
- Turbo Area: 4 cm2
Larger inlet which will require an aftermarket intake system that contains a silicone hose or an aftermarket silicone intake hose that can adapt to the larger inlet. Factory inlet boots may need the inner sleeve removed to fit.
Some States (like California) have ever tightening requirements for emissions testing and inspections. Always check your local regulations on compliance for street use.
OTHER PARTS TO CONSIDER
Gaskets, seals, studs, and other hardware are NOT included. If you need to replace these items, order separately.
See our Turbo Install Kit. This kit includes all the most commonly replaced gaskets and seals, plus a new oil supply line. Additional gaskets, seals and other hardware may be required depending on the installation.
When servicing the Turbo on the MINI, it is very important (maybe even critical) that you replace the Turbo Oil Supply line to avoid potential future turbo issues. (Included in the Turbo Install Kit).
Over time, the turbo and turbo supply line builds a fine layer of 'coked' or cooked oil on the internal surfaces. When you remove the supply line from the turbo, this disrupts the continuity of the coked layer with great potential of some of the coking to flake free. These coked oil particles can easily clog the fine journals that feed oil to the turbo bearings. Once the the oil flow is compromised, it is only a matter of time for cascading failures that can damage the turbo and catalytic converter! Don't take a chance - REPLACE the Oil Supply Line ! ! !
For additional protection, take a look at the Turbo Oil Supply Line Thermal Wrap.
For other TURBOCHARGER related products, see our TURBOCHARGER products page.
OUR ADVICE ON DRIVING A TURBOCHARGED MINI
We STRONGLY recommend you change the motor oil more frequently than the factory recommendation. Anecdotal evidence suggests Turbo's with more frequent oil changes have fewer issues. We suggest 5000 mile oil change interval or less. Make sure you use FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil with the ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles) A3/B3 specification.
After a long or hard drive, drive 'easy' for a while just before your destination. This will reduce the engine and oil temperatures to lower operating levels. Also make a habit to let the engine idle for a couple minutes before shutting off. This will help cool the turbo preventing oil coking in the journals and bearings. Yes, the MINI has an auxiliary water pump that runs after shutdown to help cool the turbo, BUT - the oil isn't cirulating - it just sits there waiting for the turbo to cool. This is why we recommend you idle before shutdown - let the oil circulate while the temperature comes down.
We recommend the following:
[ ] Replace the turbo oil supply line with the turbo.
- - - Due to excess heat round the turbocharger and particulates suspended in the turbo supply oil the oil will harden or "coke~ in the turbo and oil supply lines. If the oil supplyline is not replaced with the turbocharger the coked oil will break free from the side walls of the oil supply line and damage the turbocharger bearings. Cleaning the oil line will not help and only aggravate and increase the likelihood of the turbo failure due to coked oil breaking free form the sidewall.
[ ] Replace the catalytic converter on mini coopers before installing a new turbo.
- - - The Catalytic converters in the downpipe and B pipe may look clear but if any oil leaked into it some of the holes might be blocked and will cause back pressure. This starts to happen on Mini Coopers at 15k miles! Exhaust back pressure causes premature failure of the turbocharger. Turbochargers are not designed to have pressure on the exhaust side. As an alternative, have your catalytic converter refurbished to restore original flow.
[ ] Prime the turbocharger.
- - - No oil on the turbocharger bearings will cause failure of the bearings if they are dry even for a short period of time. Prime the new turbo with oil before you connect the oil lines. For maximum protection, see Turbo Additive for Priming New Turbo's
[ ] Fresh engine oil with a turbocharger change
- - - Perform an oil change with full synthetic motor oil at the factory recommended viscosity when you install a new turbo. Change the oil again after one heat cycle if: the engine is brand new, newly rebuilt, or if your MINI had a catastrophic turbo failure.
Before installing any of our products it is the responsibility of the installer/owner to fix or resolve any and all problems that cause the original part/item to fail and can cause the new part/item to fail. Since we do not troubleshoot, we take no responsibility for incorrectly diagnosing the issue that caused the initial part/item to fail.
LEARN MORE ABOUT TURBOCHARGERS
Take a look at these informative videos that will help you avoid potential pitfalls with the Turbo:
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 1 - Oil Line
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 2 - Catalytic Converter
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 3 - No or Low Oil
How to Kill a New Turbo Part 4 - Using the Correct Oil
NOTE: Some states (like California) have ever tightening requirements for emissions testing and inspections. Always check your local regulations on compliance for street use.
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