heres a pic of the sub i use for the twincam

in case you younger guys don't know what an 86 Chevy sprint looks like. This is my 600$ "ER" model, donor car, that came with 4.11 final drive tranny, which I replaced with a Suzuki G13 SOHC tranny, with a 3.52 gear box.

showing the mounts

another pic

That's the best design I have seen.  I would only make a couple small changes if for higher power/handling apps.  But perfect for std power, daily transportation use.  The Jig is top notch too.  If I had known about this one before I built mine, I may have just bought it instead.  Just about finished up mine (picture), for 85-88 Chev Sprint, carb motor, with G13 tranny mount location.  still need do a few things, add gussets, cut off cross bar ends and cap, etc.  Tubing size is a bit overkill for the 120 pound lighter, 52 HP lump, but for a one-off, I just used scrap pieces from our VTEC frame design.  Urethane mounts are just 1/2 of the same bushing we use on the Honda mounts, but vertical.  Alternator mounts in the stock position, electronic carb clears the bulkhead, plenty of room for the header, and drive axles are a straight shot. Engine leans back a couple degrees from the stock forward slanted position.  The right top frame tube would be straight like the left, but this way allows the crank pulley to be removed, to change out the timing belt.  Radiator sits between the grill and tranny.   I have no plans or desire to build these for sale; it is just for my own MPG project.

Hard to say, I can only give you an example. 1.0l 5speed with 75k on it. Front a-arm/frame rusted out, not drivable. $1000/obo. I figured it would be worth it just to get the entire swap from and then sell the shell, or the dudes that pick it up and sell it for scrap. Again interior was mint as well. Could have sold that. I guess milage of drivetrain, does it run, compression, shift good. If you can pull all the stuff off of it that would make the swap go easier than getting the motor, then the wiring harness (if not going with a standalone engine management)etc.

Here are links.. one to Minsuki's 13B build.. 

//minimike2bc.tripod.com/MiniSuki/Minisuki1.html

And one to the 16VMiniClub Suzuki forum with examples of frame builds..

//www.16vminiclub.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=23

Good luck with the frame design and build..

Just curious on peoples thoughts on the construction of this frame. "unseamed hydraulic tubes with the thickness of 20x2 and 22x2 and reinforcments in the mounts in 3mm sheet metal, MIG-welded". I did not make it, just curious what peoples thoughts are on it.

Anyway, I am getting ramped up as I am moving in about 3 weeks. My only concerns is the legalities of selling a frame. I am not talking mass production, like a limited run of 10 frames or so as time permits. While I am not doubting my welding abilities, just curious what the could happen in 10 years if someone gets in a wreck etc. Am I on the hook? I know minitec does something like "track use, or offroad use only". But as this is getting sooner to actually happening just want to cover my bases...

MiniTec just made a few little changes on an MTB2 subframe to mount my Honda 12V Vtec Insight motor.  I chose this 1 liter package because it is totally designed toward gas mileage.  From talking to some Honda conversion owners, the 1st gear is useless and the engines are reving quite high at highway speeds.  With a final drive of 3.208, the overall Insight ratios are as follows:

gear...ratio-->overall

1st...3.461-->11.10

2nd...1.750-->5.61

3rd...1.096-->3.32

4th...0.857-->2.75

5th...0.710-->2.28

Engine specs: Insight/Mk1 1275 "S"

HP:73@5700/78@3000

Torque:91@2000/80@3000

The HP and Torque figures are with the combined ICE and Electric motors.  I imagine it will drive like a torquey "S."  The drivetrain pulls the 1875 lb. Insight off the line and down the road just fine even with the 22.5 inch tires.  The engines run fine without the hybrid batteries, but 67HP@5700 and 66torque@4800 would have made the car less fun even at the 1250lb reduced weight.  Best gas mileage with all these new hybrid cars is at highway speeds without using any electric boost.

I just wish Norm would stop playing with his 4WD projects and get back to working on mine.

The first intake flanges should be here this week.You will have to fab up your own manifold.I am using ITB's off a snowmoble.I am making the alt. mount but if there is any interest I may have them waterjet cut.It looks like the 1" thick flange in 6061 will be 60.00 plus shipping.They cut me a sample in thin aluminum and it fit great.

Jack

I'm all for a subframe kit for the geo driveline. As long as a few criteria are met:

1. Keep the cost low. There are already EXPENSIVE SWAPS for people with lots of cash. This car is screaming for a poor mans swap.....LET IT BE DONE!

2. This is more or less related to #1. Make the frame utilize the factory stuff like suspension etc. to keep the build cost down. People like me, if I am ever in a position to do a swap like this, will be doing a factory economy swap, no turbo.

3. I know I will hear groans when I say this, but I am gonna say it anyway.....build a subby for an AUTOMATIC. Dont leave out those of us with limitations. And YES, this can be done.......

My 2 cents. And thanks meetthespeakers for the resolve to do something.

These lil engines are supposed to be rev-friendly - my eventual plan is to do NA throttle bodies & megasquirt - early heads are supposed to be better flo-wize and easy to get prepped from superf1y on TeamSwift (no relation) - if anyone runs into a picture of the 96 & later crank sensor, I'd like to see - I haven't found any pics and I may have a later block in the pile, just don't know what to look for. First, I'll just do a normal FI G10 for fit up without bulkhead & slampanel interference and to see if I can get the G10 Turbo to lay in right also (combo 3 cyl subby) & to see how it goes with the normal G10. I have a 3 cyl turbo in a roundnose now where the turbo sticks out quite a bit, I've seen the turbo behind the grille which is my goal. I want to get my Turbo running to try but way more interested in fuel injected naturally aspirated. I plan on having a jig so I can do others & fitup engine on a bench before installing or people can borrow. I'd be interested in one of the mainfold flanges in aluminum & alternator relocation bracket. I too am interested in an MPG-focused swap (without carb & 100% fuel injected) as well as a performance one . 16vMini has hybrid Mini subbies with fabricated engine cradles built into a cutdown Mini subframe & 100% fabricated subframes with no Mini components - 99% use Mini swivel hubs however.

Minsuki, I did recieve your email. Thanks, I have been stuck at work for 2 weeks straight now doing 12-15 hour shifts. I have 2 more weeks to go. Anyway after that I should be moving along with phase 1. Talk to you soon.

Jack, shoot me an email. Don't see you have any contact info on your profile. Thanks, sounds cool, curious how the intake flange has a mount for the alternator?

When you are ready let me know I have a waterjet intake manifold flange with a mount for the alt.

I am also having g10 exhust flanges waterjet cut.

Jack

Originally we were looking into just getting the Chevy Sprint G10T, but due to the low production, and being gone now for 20 years, they are a little tough to source. Not that they can't be found, but since we are going to be doing multiport injection, mega squirt, and a custom turbo/manifold/throttlebody anyway we figured we would start off with a NA G10. Also offers the choice of fitting a NA, and then being able to upgrade to a bolt on turbo kit later. Looking into a 96+ G10 that already has a crank position sensor/pulley... Anyway, the wheels are turning. Should start in Feb. I can't wait.

found 2 complete G10T engines for sale, so far up north its not even funny...

www.16vminiclub.com

Definitely join that site! Those guys are great for swaps!!!

Helped me on my D16 swap!