(4) FAM3968=Cones (Springs) with Nut
C-AJJ3359=Pair Top Shock mounts, Lowered
(2) C-AJJ3361=Shock Pins, Competition
(2) 158/M12GAS=Rear Shocks, SPAX Adjustable
(2) 158/M11GAS=Front Shocks,SPAX Adjustable
(2) 21A530=Aluminum Struts
(2) 21A1684=Rear Struts, Late Mini
See also kits: MMKT0901, -0902, -0905, -0909
Kevin,
The upgrade to dry suspension can be done with only a few modifications. The front hydro bags are held into the subframe with a couple tabs that are inside the tower of the subframe. You simply twist the hydro bags to remove them. The corresponding tabs subframe must then be bent back to allow the dry rubber cones to seat properly. This is probably the most difficult part of the upgrade and the tabs are at the top edge where the hydro bags are removed from.
As for the upper arms, drilling them is easy enough and and will not effect their use if a return to hydro is in the future. The rear arms can be dealt with in a couple ways. The most common option would be to cut off the stud where the spring is attached and simply drill and tap if for a bolt. But as this would not allow for an easy conversion back to hydro, the second most common approach would be to simply install new stub axles. Third option would be to replace them with dry arms.
I have converted a number of cars and can assure you the upgrade is well worth it!
(4) FAM3968=Cones (Springs) with Nut
C-AJJ3359=Pair Top Shock mounts, Lowered
(2) C-AJJ3361=Shock Pins, Competition
(2) 158/M12GAS=Rear Shocks, SPAX Adjustable
(2) 158/M11GAS=Front Shocks,SPAX Adjustable
(2) 21A530=Aluminum Struts
(2) 21A1684=Rear Struts, Late Mini
See also kits: MMKT0901, -0902, -0905, -0909
Kevin,
The upgrade to dry suspension can be done with only a few modifications. The front hydro bags are held into the subframe with a couple tabs that are inside the tower of the subframe. You simply twist the hydro bags to remove them. The corresponding tabs subframe must then be bent back to allow the dry rubber cones to seat properly. This is probably the most difficult part of the upgrade and the tabs are at the top edge where the hydro bags are removed from.
As for the upper arms, drilling them is easy enough and and will not effect their use if a return to hydro is in the future. The rear arms can be dealt with in a couple ways. The most common option would be to cut off the stud where the spring is attached and simply drill and tap if for a bolt. But as this would not allow for an easy conversion back to hydro, the second most common approach would be to simply install new stub axles. Third option would be to replace them with dry arms.
I have converted a number of cars and can assure you the upgrade is well worth it!

Loading...

Loading...

Loading...

Loading...

Loading...
-
Price : $168.95
-
Price : $96.95
-
Price : $78.95
-
Price : $22.95
-
Price : $100.95